Henry Jacques CEO Anne-Lise Cremona on Letting Perfume Be The King

Henry Jacques began as a bespoke house and remained highly private for decades. What did you want to preserve as you opened the Maison to a wider audience?

My parents built a highly confidential Maison, guided by discretion and an uncompromising dedication to craftsmanship. Growing up within Henry Jacques, I absorbed these values instinctively, but it was only after stepping away and returning that I truly understood their importance – and the responsibility of carrying them forward.

When I was entrusted with this legacy, the perfume world was evolving rapidly towards mass production, multi-brand distribution, synthetic compositions, and heavy advertising that often overshadowed the essence of the fragrance itself, sometimes at the expense of true quality. That contrast clarified my vision: not to follow the industry’s direction, but to protect and elevate what made Henry Jacques unique. I understood that preserving our heritage required me to share our savoir-faire with those who would appreciate it.

Together with Christophe Tollemer, we brought this vision to life by uniting a house of composition with a house of design, creating what would become the iconic Les Classiques collection. We introduced a timeless flacon, identical for each fragrance, housing the natural Les Essences, whose concentrations were and remain the highest in the market. We also revived a forgotten ritual: a single drop applied to the skin with a crystal glass wand. In an era of sprays, differentiated flacons, and personality-driven marketing, few believed in this approach – but I did. With Harrods, we created the right environment for these creations to be discovered. Today, Les Classiques has become an iconic collection, with Les Essences outperforming all other variations across our boutiques worldwide.

My experiences have taught me to lead with conviction, to balance heritage with innovation, to remain independent from industry pressures – and above all, never compromise on quality. I believe that when something is crafted with true integrity, it will always find its audience.

You speak about longevity while keeping the art of perfumery intact. What does longevity mean for Henry Jacques in practical terms?

Henry Jacques believes that longevity lies in the ability to preserve traditional rituals while remaining in harmony with modern lifestyles.

Creatively, it means protecting the Maison’s olfactive signature while allowing it to evolve with intention, rather than following fleeting trends. Culturally, it is about resonating with a generation that seeks both self-expression and responsibility – where a fragrance becomes an imprint of identity as much as a conscious choice.

Commercially, longevity translates into a model rooted in meaning rather than excess: every element is designed to endure, reflecting values that matter over time rather than momentary appeal.

Collection de l’Atelier is described as perhaps the Maison’s most creative collection. What made this particular project so different from a traditional fragrance launch?

What made the entire experience of Collection de l’Atelier so extraordinary was, first of all, that it came as a true surprise. Our decision to grow roses was very spontaneous, and it was also challenging. We learned a great deal throughout and honestly weren’t expecting such success, neither in terms of olfactive brilliance, nor quantity: in our first year, 2023, we harvested over four tons of roses! The notes of the HJ Rose de Mai Absolute were stunning, like discovering a new colour. This has repeated itself each year, which in our world, lends itself to endless inspiration and creativity.

The 2025 edition is presented as the final chapter of the Rose Trio. Why did you decide to let this project end rather than turn it into an ongoing commercial success?

The 2025 edition represents the final trio of fragrances celebrating our HJ Rose de Mai. That said, it doesn’t mark an end to working with these roses. We’ll continue to explore new creations inspired by them. Collection de l’Atelier evolves according to our inspirations, without being constrained by form. It wasn’t a conscious decision to create a “grand finale,” but the 2025 Rose de Mai Absolute revealed itself with such depth and complexity that it naturally inspired bold interpretations. Its round chestnut-honey facets give it an almost leathery richness, while warm, spicy touches of cinnamon and saffron open the door to unexpected unions like rose and saffron in Rose Azafira. Our craftsmen embraced these nuances, daring to explore very different expressive frameworks, each highlighting a unique facet of the rose.

Rose is one of perfumery’s most familiar codes. What did you want to reveal about rose that conventional luxury perfumery usually smooths over or leaves untouched?

The 2025 Rose de Mai Absolute is exceptionally rich, revealing so many facets that it naturally invites exploration. For a perfumer, it is a rare gift: its nuances are delicate, sometimes almost hidden in the background, yet it is thrilling to focus on these details and discover what emerges.

The subtle spiciness of saffron in the background prompted a playful question: if rose and saffron pair so naturally in this absolute, why not explore it further? This led to the creation of Rose Azafira, a dialogue between the rose and saffron that feels both unexpected and perfectly harmonious.

The absolute’s depth also inspired a richer, more textured interpretation. By incorporating resinous labdanum balanced with bright citrus and neroli in the opening, Rose Alambrah was born, revealing a radiant and enveloping side of the rose, disrupting the traditional perfumery codes.

For Rose Très Rose 2025, it was the leathery, chestnut-honey nuances of the absolute that stood out. The perfumer amplified these facets within the Cuvée Dehen el Oudh, giving the fragrance a distinctive strength and highlighting an intimate, unexpected dimension of HJ Rose de Mai.

Translating a single rose into three distinct olfactive stories is both an exercise in precision and an act of imagination. Like a musician composing a symphony, the perfumer layers notes to bring different facets of the rose to life. He plays with what can be expected and what can be surprising. Through this intuition and respect for the raw material, each rose fragrance becomes its own expressive universe. HJ Rose de Mai has so much to tell, and we are certain we have only begun to uncover her story.

Henry Jacques does not rely on the cult of the celebrity perfumer in the way many houses do. What’s the reason for that?

Henry Jacques works with a committee of perfumers, safeguarding its signature while continuing to innovate. We choose not to rely on the celebrity perfumers because we believe creativity thrives through teamwork, and also because at HJ, the perfume is king, not its creator.

With the same philosophy, we do not associate a face with a fragrance. We allow each perfume to become whatever the client wishes: a memory, an uplift, a comfort, a presence of their choosing. We want to give the client complete freedom of experience. Associating a face with a fragrance restricts imagination and emotions. Even with our In All Intimacy collection, the concept is to share a story rather than impose an identity on the perfume.

As the daughter of the founder, how do you distinguish between preserving a legacy and being constrained by it?

A legacy is not something static. It is a set of values, a vision, and a level of integrity that must be carried forward with intention. What can become constraining is not the legacy itself, but the fear of evolving it. My role was never to follow, but to protect and elevate what makes Henry Jacques unique.

Traditional Haute Parfumerie calls for patience and determination. When you make no compromises on quality, you must allow nature the time it needs, seek out the finest raw materials, collaborate with the most skilled craftsmen, and engage in genuine conversations with clients, all of which are rare and require time. But this is never a burden. We deeply value time: its duration, its slowness. To us, time is a luxury.

When someone experiences Henry Jacques today, what would you like them to feel beyond exclusivity?

Perfume is profoundly personal. For some, it may evoke a cherished memory – an instant journey back to a particular moment, place, or feeling. For others, it may simply bring comfort, joy, energy, or a sense of calm. For other, it might spark curiosity about the savoir-faire behind the fragrance. Every reaction is precious to us. These are the moments the entire Henry Jacques team treasures most: when a fragrance resonates, surprises, or inspires, creating a deeply personal connection between wearer and perfume.